The blue gate, known as Bad Bou Jeloud, welcomes you to this labyrinth of 9,000 streets within the Medina. It was July on the 21st century, but here time stopped in the Medieval Age, specifically in the 8th century. 

There are no tall buildings, only the mosques of the city prevail, nor are cars heard. There is no contamination, and the scenery is made of clay. There are no asphalt roads, instead the streets are cobbled, and some are so narrow that only one person can enter at a time. 

As we entered, the images of the famous Brazilian soap opera “The Clon” came to my mind, which was broadcast in my native Ecuador during primetime in 2001.

I was captivated with that story from the beginning. Each woman with Islamic veils reminded me of Jade, the main character, and the ladies’ faces, of the character Soraide. I was even excited when I heard the names of the merchants shouting: Mohamed, Said, Ali or Mustafa. 

• 

• 

After 16 years (from the time I saw “The Clon”) I had finally achieved my dream. I was in Morocco, specifically in Fez. An Arab city that visually enchanted me for being a time capsule and having deep-rooted Muslim traditions. 

The Medina of Fez is walled, which is generally the case. To immerse myself in the local customs, I stayed in a Riad, which are the typical houses. Outside it had a tiny door, but inside it was large – with an interior patio, fountains and trees – similar to the Uncle Ali’s TV character house. 

My surprise was that another Alí received us, exactly as in the soap opera. The tall, skinny boy dressed in a robe invited us to have the famous mint tea and opened the map of the city. It was an almost impossible mission to move alone in the Medina and more complicated when you are a woman. My best option was to hire a tour guide. 

Along with Hassan our guide, the six-hour adventure began in at least half of the 300 neighborhoods that make up the ancient city of Fez El-Bali. The streets have names written in Arabic and you will hardly go through the same area again. But the guide knew them like the palm of his hand.

• 

• 

Nestled in the spice market you can see a giant cedar door that is the entrance to Madrasah or Medersa Al-Attarine, the oldest Koranic school. Its most remarkable features are the marble columns, the tiles and the elaborate carvings made piece by piece by its craftsmen. Its central fountain is used for purification. 

The city is known for having the greatest artisans. It is inevitable that the guide will take you shopping, to the stores of his friends making jewelry, rugs, silk sheets, copper pots, leather articles, vessels, and fountains… This is how commerce is part of living in Fez. 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The temperature reached 38 degrees centigrade, the sun was intense, but we were approaching the most photographed site in Fez. The terrible smell indicated proximity. We went up to Mr. Amman’s store and they gave us a sprig of mint to breathe. 

We reached the balcony and from there, we saw the men submerged in the colored tubs of the Chouwara Tannery, as if they were posing for a postcard. Just like in the first episodes of the soap opera, when Latiffa showed Jade that Uncle Ali owned half of the coloring tanks. 

The Chouwara Tanneryse is a millennial business family of Fez.

In these giant watercolors of white, red, blue, brown and green dyes, the leather of previously slaughtered sheep, cows, goats and camels is transformed. The foul smell is due to the use of pigeon droppings to clean the leather and remove the fat. It’s astonishing how they can work in those conditions. 

Dozens of families are engaged in this thousand-year-old business and the leathers are exhibited on their terraces while they complete their drying process. Later on, the fine coats, shoes and wallets go to their stores and after that, they’re sent to Italy or Paris, where many will be branded with the labels of recognized fashion houses. 

Every corner in Fez was charming to me: Donkeys everywhere, for transporting cargo; Camel heads hanging in the meat market; the fountains decorations; the colors of the tiles; the elegance of its mosques and Koranic schools; the women dresses. But, above all, the stores, the veils, the traditional shoes, the bags, the ceramics, and the argan oils that specially caught my attention. 

• 

• 

• 

• 

As the night came down on us, while waiting for our dinner on the terrace of the Riad, a song came from the speakers of the mosques. It was the call to prayer for all Muslims. Our waiter Hassan and the cook Nabila had to enter to pray towards Mecca, as is their ritual. 

And with this moment, we ended up this adventure where I lived the fantasy of being in “The Clon” for one day.  I got to see with my own eyes, that even though the centuries have passed in Fez, its culture and religious traditions are still intact. 

To note:

1. The best way to get to Fez is by train. Their carriages are comfortable and air-conditioned. The price from Marrakesh is US$ 33 and from Casablanca US$ 17. It worked for me to ask the hotel having a taxi pick me up at the station. Although if you request this convenience, they charge you $ 10, when a regular one on the street charges you US$ 1.  
2. Walking by yourself through the Medina is an extreme sport. It is advisable to do it with a guide. This will prevent passersby insistently asking you to tip them if they help you with any information. The price of the guide varies between $ 20 and $ 30 per person.  
3. Women do not have to cover their heads, but it is expected that you wear modest and loose clothing without low necklines and covering your shoulders.  
4. Arabs are merchants by nature. They will ask a very high price for their products, but if you haggle, you can take down the price in half.  
5. Entrance to mosques is prohibited for non-Muslims. But you are allowed to take photos at its entrances.  
6. Fez also has a modern city, outside the walls. You will find shopping malls, supermarkets and fast food restaurants. 
7. Fez is considered part of the Cultural Heritage of Humanity, according to UNESCO, and its Medina is the largest pedestrian zone in the world. It has 300 neighborhoods and 500,000 habitants. 

 

Thailand chose me. I dare say it, because it was never on my travel list. At least not in 2016. It only appeared suddenly on my life and it happened at the right time. Those were 10 days in which the word “plan” was not on my agenda. I just ventured to a totally unknown region for me: Southeast Asia. 

I do not regret it. I believe It’s one of the most captivating countries on earth. The wonder of its beaches and its majestic temples surround you. The extreme contrasts are the reason why it’s so alluring and constitutes its very essence. 

Deep religiosity, reverent loyalty to the King and visible prostitution may share the same area. And the best thing about Thailand is that you don’t need a fortune to experience the country. Even a low budget can give you options. 

• 

• 

• 

• 

It all happened in November for this reason: Yi Peng or the lantern festival in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand. Searching for air tickets was not difficult with Expedia. A week before the event (Nov 13) I found them at 630 USD by China Southern Airlines. The price may be even cheaper if you get them in advance.  

I must remind you, the first flight departing from New York has an average of 16 hours and almost all other options have extensive layovers in Chinese cities that you probably have never heard of, where hardly anyone speaks English, so you must be prepared.  

In my case it was seven hours in Guangzhou, China and later on, eight hours in Bangkok, to finally arrive in Chiang Mai. In terms of accommodation, the range of options is extensive. Hostels, luxury hotels, bed & breakfasts located in the historical sector of the city with different prices for every budget. I chose Fuengfa Place for a nightly rate of 34USD for a double-bed room.  

Chiang Mai is a city with a lot of traffic and noise, but its imposing Buddhist temples are the main attraction. On each street, the monks in their orange robes give a colorful fleck on the landscape, and tuk tuks (tricycles) and the songthaew (small public transport vans) finish the ensemble with an urban touch. 

• 

• 

• 

These sites are a must: Wat Pa Prao Nok Temple, Wat Phra Singh, Wat Phan Tao, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and the oldest, Wat Chedi Luang Worawihan, for which you only pay 1.50 USD. The bazaar and the night market are the perfect places to shop. 

The Prices are unbeatable: In one day your expenses can include 60 cents USD on transportation, 5 USD for a full lunch, beer brands like Chang for 1 USD a bottle, Coconuts 50 cents USD, T-shirts for 3 USD, Handbags for 10 USD, and the famous Thai massage for 6 USD. 

My friends and I rented a taxi so we could take the tours outside the city. The first stop was at Elephant Nature Park, a rescue center. For 79 USD, We fed, walked and bathed our new friend Satawy for two hours. It was unforgettable. 

We ended up in the village of the Kayan tribe, whose women are known for the collar rings on their long necks. 

• 

• 

It was finally the night of November 13. The full moon was the perfect background setting to kick off the lantern festival that happens every year. Since we couldn’t buy the tickets for the main event, we had to go to a town called Lumpung. 

At that site the tour cost us 60 USD including transportation, food coupons, entrance and the floating lanterns 

Letting go and leave all bad things behind is part of Buddhist doctrine. The monks’ prayers and blessings, turning the lanterns on and releasing them was magical. Thousands of yellow lights adorned the sky, just like in the Disney movie Tangled

For a moment, you immerse yourself in a light show where you don’t know whether to take photos, hug those who are with you or let go of your lantern. That moment was a joyful checkmark on our bucket list. 

Once the event was over, our next destination was to discover the south and its beaches. For what I’ve lived at that point, I thoroughly recommend Thailand. Whether on a budget or not, this is a destination that you can’t say no to. 

We were 22 meters underground. We turn off the headlights of our helmets, we remain silent and immobile for three minutes. My first time experiencing absolute total silence. Without the sound of ambulances, trains, planes and New York’s loud voices.

Nor was a ray of light reflected in the cave. It was absolutely dark. I couldn’t see the outline of my hands. But I was never afraid, I think nobody felt fear. We only enjoyed that peace and harmony that we went to look for at the place where the Mayan Gods delighted for many centuries: The secret river (Río Secreto).  

The expedition began with a 20-minute walk through the jungle. We wore special clothes and water shoes. Before that, we had to leave our belongings in a locker and take a bath to eliminate all the chemicals that we may have in our body, so we were not going to contaminate the water. 

In a curve we found a shaman, who asked us to make a circle to start the ritual. It was the first interaction with the Mayan culture. With herbs and incenses he repeated his prayer to ask the Gods to bless our almost two-hour journey through the natural reserve of the Mexican Riviera

Nothing would happen to us because we were protected. They had approved our visit. 

Holding hands, because of the rocky path, we descended and entered this almost 12-kilometer cave system. We dive into the water. “Shit, it’s freezing,” Canadian tourists shouted. In my case, I held my breath until my body acclimatized to the water. 

We turned on our flashlights… 

We look around us. It gave us chills, and three of the eight tourists were gasping. This was an ecosystem like none of us has ever seen before. 

It was a river, with no current, hidden below the surface. A turquoise color reflected in our lights. On the sides, we were amazed with the white and yellow rocky walls, rich in stalagmites, stalactites and calcium columns.

All intertwined with each other, as if someone had sculpted them so. We were not allowed to touch them or hold onto them. The big rocks in the water caused us to stumble so our walk was very slow. 

In certain areas we had to swim in the depth of the river. “Be careful, if you drink from this water, You will surely have a kidney stone later”, the guide, Yonathan explained when talking about the richness in calcium carbonate that are present in this ecosystem. 

However, we were allowed to swim and enjoy the water. Once again, we turned off all the lights and enjoyed the darkness again. It was only two minutes. A little moment to relax completely and enough to be delighted. 

As we continued descending, the guide indicated that for the Mayans, the caves were a place where their gods lived because the water had not been touched by man. Also, when they discovered the area in 2006, they discovered archaeological remains.

Almost an hour had passed, and our journey was still going. In each sector the hue of the walls changed and even the stalagmites were replaced by helictites that looked like corals or popcorn..

We also observed some mangrove roots and were scared to see a scorpion resting on a rock, but we tried not to scream so as not to awaken the bats.

Charged with the energy of the Secret River (Rio Secreto), we saw a light. We were near the exit. “See that hole up there. A fox fell while being chased. This is how they discovered this reserve”, Yonathan told us. 

As we continued walking, the path was getting brighter. We reached the surface and found an archaeological vessel, which probably belonged to the Mayan Culture. It was the end of our expedition.

We felt privileged because Río Secreto opened its doors in 2009. It is an almost unknown place for many tourists, despite being one of the destinations recommended by National Geographic magazine. 

To end this amazing and vibrant expedition, we made a toast with anise. Then we all have a Mexican lunch buffet that was included in the ticket. We had chicken, lime soup and some tostadas.

Río Secreto taught us that Mother Nature is so rich in ecosystems and there is still so much to explore.

IMPORTANT TIPS:

• Río Secreto is located 5 kilometers south of Playa del Carmen, in Quintana Roo State, Mexico.  
• The caves in the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico, are underwater. Aquifers like Río Secreto are filled by rain that seeps through the limestone. 
• Río Secreto is a model of sustainable tourism. They preserve the underground area and the jungle that is above it.  
• In the jungle they have felines such as the jaguar, puma, ocelot, tigrillo and jaguarundi. There are deer, anteaters, and raccoons.
• Unique creatures capable of surviving in perpetual darkness also live within the ecosystem. These are the blind shrimp, the white lady (a blind translucent fish), and scorpions. 
• The ticket costs 79USD. 

Estábamos a 22 metros bajo tierra. Apagamos las linternas de nuestros cascos, nos quedamos callados e inmóviles por tres minutos. Mi primera vez experimentando el silencio total. Sin el sonido de las ambulancias, los trenes, los aviones y los gritos newyorkinos.

Tampoco se reflejaba ni un rayo de luz en la cueva. Era absolutamente oscuro. No podía ver ni el contorno de mis manos. Pero nunca tuve miedo, creo que ninguno lo sintió. Sólo disfrutábamos de esa paz y armonía que fuimos a buscar al sitio donde los “Dioses Mayas” se deleitaron por muchos siglos: Río Secreto.

La expedición comenzó con un recorrido a pie por la selva durante 20 minutos. Vestíamos ropa especial y zapatos de agua. Antes tuvimos dejar en un casillero nuestras pertenencias y tomar un baño para eliminar todo el químico que tenemos en el cuerpo de esta manera no contaminabamos el agua.

En una curva encontramos a un chamán, quien nos pidió hacer un círculo para iniciar el ritual. Fue la primera interacción con la cultura Maya. Con hierbas e inciensos repetía su oración para pedirles a los “Dioses” que bendigan nuestra travesía de casi dos horas por la reserva natural de la Riviera mexicana.

Nada nos pasaría porque estábamos protegidos. Ellos habían aprobado nuestra visita.

Tomados de la mano, por lo rocoso que era el camino, descendimos y entramos a éste sistema de cuevas de casi 12 kilómetros. Nos sumergimos en el agua. “Shit, it’s freezing”, gritaban los turistas canadienses. En mi caso, contuve la respiración hasta que mi cuerpo se aclimatara al agua.

Prendimos nuestras linternas…

Miramos a nuestro alrededor. Nuestra piel se erizó y tres de los ocho turistas quedaron boquiabiertos. Un ecosistema jamás visto. En mi caso, solo en una foto publicada en facebook.

Era un río, sin corriente, escondido debajo de la superficie. Un color turquesa se reflejaba con nuestras luces. A los lados, los asombrábamos con la paredes rocosas blancas y amarillas ricas de estalagmitas, estalactitas y columnas de calcio. Todas entrelazadas entre sí, como si alguien las hubiera esculpido.

Teníamos prohibido tocarlas o sostenernos de ellas. Las grandes rocas en el agua nos hacia tropezar por lo que nuestra caminata era muy lenta.

En ciertas áreas nos tocó nadar por la profundidad del río. “Cuidado beben de esta agua. Si lo hacen tendrán de seguro una piedra en el riñón”, nos explicaba el guía Yonathan al hablar sobre la riqueza en carbonato calcio que tiene el ecosistema.

Sin embargo, nos permitió nadar y disfrutar el agua. Una vez más apagamos todo y volvimos a disfrutar de la oscuridad. Fueron solos dos minutos. Poco para relajarnos completamente y lo suficiente para deleitarnos.

Mientras seguíamos descendiendo, el guía nos indicaba que para los Mayas, las cuevas eran un sitio donde habitaban sus dioses porque el agua no había sido tocada por el hombre. Además, cuando descubrieron el área en el 2006, descubrieron restos arqueológicos.

Había transcurrido casi una hora y nuestra travesía aún continuaba. En cada sector la tonalidad de las paredes cambiaba e incluso las estalagmitas quedaron remplazadas por  helictitas que lucían como corales o popcorn.

También observamos algunas raíces de manglar y nos asustamos al ver un escorpión descansando en una roca pero tratamos de no gritar para no despertar a los murciélagos. .

Recargados de la energía de Río Secreto, vimos una luz. Estabamos cerca de la salida. “Ven ese hueco allá arriba. Un zorro cayó mientras lo perseguían. Así fue como descubrieron esta reserva”, nos comentó Yonathan.

Al seguir caminando, el sitio aclaraba. Llegamos a la superficie y encontramos una vasija arqueológica, que probablemente pertenecía a la Cultura Maya. Era el fin de nuestra expedición.

Nos sentíamos privilegiados porque Río Secreto abrió sus puertas en el 2009. Es un lugar casi desconocido para muchos a pesar de ser parte de los destinos recomendados por la revista National Geographyc.

Al terminar, brindamos emocionados con un anís para celebrar que volvimos sanos y salvos, y concluíamos la tarde con un almuerzo típico mexicano (tostadas, pollo tinga, sopa de lima).

Río Secreto nos enseñó que nuestro planeta nos sorprende con diferentes ecosistemas y lo rico de la vida es poder experimentar todo lo que la madre naturaleza ha diseñado para nosotros.

Datos:

• Río Secreto está ubicado a 5 kilómetros al sur de Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo, México.
• Las cuevas en la Península de Yucatán, México, están debajo del agua. Los acuíferos como Rio Secreto se recargan gracias a la lluvia y se filtra a través de la roca caliza.
• Río Secreto es un ejemplo de turismo sustentable. Preservan la zona subterránea y la selva que esta encima de este.
• En la selva tienen felinos como el jaguar, puma, ocelote, tigrillo y jaguarundi. Existen venados, osos hormigueros, mapaches.
• Dentro del ecosistema también viven seres únicos capaces de sobrevivir en la oscuridad perpetua. Estos son el camarón ciego, la dama blanca, escorpiones.
• La entrada tiene un valor de 75USD.