It’s October 2nd. Your suitcase is ready. You still don’t know if the return will be in 6 months or in a couple of years. Worried? I know. You forgot to give the I94 back that day when you came back home in June. Well, that paper will change your plans. Don’t forget to bring the ID of the magazine.

Hey, it’s you. 10 years older, 10 pounds heavier and 10 thousand grey hair. Couple wrinkles, but I can tell, still looks like the old you.

Why am I writing to you? Just nostalgia. I miss writing. No, you will never go back to journalism as you hope to right now and I want to apologize. Your perspectives and priorities have been changed in all these years. But, good news. Finally, after studying in three schools, you speak English. Of course still afraid to talk on the phone.

New York is difficult. VERY. That is aggressive, intense, fascinating, noisy and extremely demanding, yes, like no other city in the world. Your life will be a challenge, full of ups and downs like a roller-coaster. Even though the patience,  tolerance, and resistance are going to help in the road.

This is not a vacation anymore. You will live the other face of the coin when it comes to rent, insurance, MTA’s card and Federal and State taxes. In the beginning looking for an apartment will be your worst nightmare. Jumping between apartments at Queens and The Bronx will all be part of the journey. Unfortunately, the Upper East Side and West Village are still in your dreams.

You will be working in a bakery, selling ice creams, making Christmas baskets until one day will find stability in the Hospitality business. But with the time you will become an Immigration Lawyer, financial adviser, economist, travel agent, guide tourist, plumber, electrical technician, handywoman…

Without any doubt, you will love and hate the city, even on the same day or an hour. When you enjoy a night with a glass of Moet on top of a nice building and then you are stuck in traffic on the bridge or on the train. Your favorite season will be Spring (after the allergies), Fall makes you feel sentimental and the sad days are when you hang all the coats and jackets in your closet.

Your friends will become your family. During these years some of them will disappoint you. True friends will help you anytime, with hospital appointments, giving you a hand and a couch to sleep on. Likewise, you will be that shoulder. And with the time you will have a lot of nephews.

I will warn you, a lot of times you will be scared. But there is one particular situation the fear will run through your veins until it feels like you can breathe. Believe me, this event is going to change your situation for good. It will be the door of your freedom, to the world, and after that, nothing stops you.

You will travel like you’ve never imagined, visiting places you read about in books. A little bit of Asia, Africa, Oceania and more of Europe. Will love the sunset. Traveling will enrich you so much and share it with your family even more.

Now you are a ‘Newyorker’. People say it when you’ve been here for more than 8 years. You are always late or in a rush and never keep quiet. Know your rights and vote for Hillary!

Finally, you found that stability and peace that you were working hard for through the years. For moments you thought it was your biggest mistake. But trust me. You have learned to accept that life doesn’t follow a pre-determined plan. Every person and opportunity appeared and happens at the right time.

You and I love New York. I feel an immense amount of gratitude toward this city that helped me grow into who I am today at my 36th’s. It’s become part of my identity. There’s still a lot to learn and experience. More museums, streets, neighborhoods, corners, building, restaurants, bars, exhibitions. A lot to try and work.

You have no idea how much longer you’ll be here, but you are completely certain it will not be another 10 years.

Hoy es 2 de octubre. Tienes las maletas listas. No sabes si regresarás en seis meses o años. Estás preocupada. Sé que se te olvidó entregar el I94 cuando volviste en junio. Ese papel cambiarán tus planes. No olvides llevar tu carnet de la revista.

Hola soy tú. 10 años mayor, 10 libras de más y decenas de canas. Un par de arrugas, pero puedes decir que aún luces como en este instante.

Porqué te escribo. Solo nostalgia. Extraño escribir. No, nunca pudiste ejercer tu profesión como lo quieres tanto. Discúlpame. Tus perspectivas, expectativas y tus prioridades fueron cambiando con el tiempo. Eso sí, luego de estudiar en tres escuelas, finalmente hablas inglés.  Aunque sigues estresándote al hablarlo por teléfono.

Que New York es difícil,  DIFICILISIMO. Que es agresiva, intensa, fascinante, ruidosa, extremadamente exigente. Si, como ninguna otra ciudad. Tu vida aquí será un deporte de velocidad y reflejos. Una constante montaña rusa.  Pero la tolerancia, la paciencia y la resistencia te ayudarán en esta carrera.

Estas ya no son vacaciones. Tú misma vivirás el otro lado de la moneda, donde todo girará sobre una renta, una tarjeta del tren y los impuestos. Al principio buscar donde vivir será tu pesadilla. Saltarás de departamento en departamento entre Queens y El Bronx. El Upper East Side y West Village seguirán solo en tus sueños.

Trabajarás en una panadería, venderás helados, decorarás canastas navideñas, hasta que finalmente te quedarás en restaurantes. Y la vida te convertirá en abogada de migración, agente de viaje, guía turística, asesora financiera, plomera, electricista…   

Sin duda amarás y odiarás la ciudad, incluso en la misma hora. Cuando estés disfrutando de una copa de Moet en un rascacielos frente al Empire State y luego permanezcas 30 minutos dentro de un tren sin moverse. La primavera será tu estación favorita y el otoño te pondrá melancólica. Y el invierno… sin palabras.

Tus amigos serán tu familia. Algunos con el tiempo te decepcionaron. Los verdadero son los que te acompañarán al hospital, te darán una mano, un sofá para dormir. Pero tú también serás ese hombro e incluso ayudarás a una de tus amigas a tener su bebé.

Te diré que en unos años sentirás miedo. Pero en una situación concreta, el temor correrá por tus venas hasta sentir que no puedes respirar. Creerás que ese episodio será tu puerta a la libertad. Al mundo. Luego nadie te detendrá.

Viajarás como nunca pensaste hacerlo. Conocerás sitios que desde pequeña veías en las enciclopedias. Conocerás un poquito África, Oceanía, Asia y más de Europa. Amarás ver las caídas de sol desde diferentes partes del mundo. Viajar te enriquecerá tanto y compartir con la familia mucho más. 

Ahora eres newyorker. Asi dicen cuando tienes más de 8 años. Caminas apurada, no te quedas callada y reaccionas cuando alguien se mete contigo. Votas en las elecciones.

Finalmente encontraste esa estabilidad. Por un tiempo pensarás que toda esta travesía había sido un error. Pero confía que todo ocurrió en el momento oportuno.

Amas New York. Has aprendido tanto y falta mucho. Museos, barrios, calles, restaurantes y esquinas por conocer. Comida que probar y trabajos por experimentar. Aún no sabes cuanto tiempo te quedarás, pero ya estás segura que no serán otros 10.   

Zion National Park was glowing with its reddish, pink, orange, and yellow hues. Its rocky and semi-desert landscape was the gateway to the state of Utah, in the United States. Driving through it felt like being immersed in a nature theme park. 

This is how I began my first road trip journey through the west of the country. After 10 years living in New York, it was about time to explore those spectacular national parks, still inhabited by American Indian communities. Driving from Las Vegas, Nevada, I went through Route 89, visiting 4 sites: Zion, Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe bend and Lake Powell. 

Imposing walls, which form the canyon, majestic topography, hills, gorges, high precipices, lookouts, streams, lakes, ponds, swamps, desert… All of it is Zion.  

If you are a lover of camping and nature, it will take you at least 5 days to explore it fully. The park has 15 trails with easy, moderate and intense walks. The free buses take you from the parking lot to the beginning of each journey. In my case I chose ‘Canyon Overlook’. It is the only location where you can park your vehicle at a nearby point. 

The experience is fascinating. Part of the path is carved out of the stone, and there are chasms where you must hold onto the ropes and climb on rocks. The heat of July is intense, but with a water bottle, comfortable clothes and a cap, you will reach the panoramic viewpoint in an hour. This is where the mountains trails meet and shape the canyon.  

Narrows is the most famous and difficult because you walk along the Virgin River and the journey takes 8 hours. Angels Landing is the ideal for beginners, suitable for those who do not suffer from vertigo. Since I was running out of time, I couldn’t complete another trail. I had three hours ahead of me to reach the town of Page by car, near my next point: Antelope.  

Antelope Canyon

Antelope Canyon is located within the desert in the state of Arizona. For the Navajo communities, Antelope is a spiritual place, where you can feel in harmony with nature. This canyon, with dramatic curvatures in its walls, is undoubtedly one of the most photographed and visited sites in the country.

Because it’s such a narrow passage, the light that penetrates and bounces of the sandstone rock is reflected in a multitude of orange, yellow and red tones.

Only Navajo guided tours are available, and the best time for its light effect is at 12pm. Get those tickets early. It’s almost mission impossible, so plan to buy them weeks in advance.  

Fortunately, I got them for the 11 am tour. While I waited, the heat, once again, was getting to me. A van took us down a sandy route to the Upper Antelope, where we encountered a flood of tourists already lining up to enter. 

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Inside, the atmosphere was more than unique. It was magical. As noon approached, Antelope gave us a display: a fusion of light and shadow. In certain parts, it was like being inside a cave. Taking photos was challenging due to the number of tourists and the confinement of the narrow canyon. The shape of the site is not helpful either. 

After an hour surrounded by this fantastic game of colors, we walked 15 minutes towards the next stop: Horseshoe bend  

Horseshoe bend

My favorite spot. Perhaps, the most spectacular natural view in the US. It is like a canvas: The height of the Glen canyon, and the perfect meander surrounded by the Colorado River (400m high), will take your breath away.

The route from the parking lot to the canyons edge is very short. Only 15 minutes. But this is the desert, and with an average temperature of 104 degrees, you will find dozens of signs advising you to bring plenty of water and sun protection. And believe me, they are right to warn you. After 5 minutes I found it difficult to breathe and walk at the same time.

Once in the observation point, you get to enjoy the view. Fill yourself with energy and photograph every corner. Some daring tourist approached the edge to get the perfect portrait for the hour: The sun falling in the sky. 

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Once I finished this adventure, I began my drive back to Las Vegas. But an entrance sign to Lake Powell caught my attention. Dozens of mobile homes were parked along the shores of the artificial lake that is the second largest man-made reservoir in the United States.

Seeing the crystal-clear waters while enduring the sweltering temperature, it was impossible for me not to make a final stop and take a dive before returning to Nevada. 

To know:

• Entry to Zion is $ 35 per vehicle. The pass lasts up to a week. 
• There are not many nearby towns. The best options are the towns of Springdale (near Zion) and Page (Antelope). 
• Antelope has two cannons. High and low. The best view is the first. The entrance is 60 USD for adults and 30 USD for children. You can only pay in cash. 
• The airports near these sites are the ones serving Las Vegas, Nevada and Phoenix, Arizona 

Last year I immersed myself in the waters of the largest archipelago on the planet. Flying through the aerospace of the nearly 17,500 islands that make up Indonesia, I finally arrived in Bali. 

I’ll admit it. I added Bali to my list when I was returning from Ko Phi Phi island in Thailand. After reading the book ‘Eat, pray and love’, and being captivated by the photos of a friend posing on a swing while watching a spectacular sunset, I couldn’t resist the FOMO from the social media bombardment  

In the book, the writer Elizabeth Gilbert recreated a quiet island with ancient traditions, where tourists come looking for that elusive spiritual “peace”. Its landscape, a tapestry of green rice fields and turquoise beaches. 

But the daily life in Bali is full of contradictions. Although it is known for its pristine and paradisiacal beaches, unless you stay in the luxurious hotels, you may find yourself in beaches where you dive into the midst of floating plastic debris and visible pollution. 

The island is a Hindu sanctuary, the only one within a predominantly Muslim country. The main nearby cities of Kuta and Ubud, on the other hand, have chaotic traffic and a permanent surge of tourists. When I say traffic, I mean hour and a half parked on the road for a distance of 10 km. 

Unlike Thailand, there are no temples with golden buddhas, but houses with shrines. Every morning the Balinese offer flowers, rice, food and incense to the gods and the spirits of their ancestors. They ask for protection against demons. 

And, in the afternoon, the women make new offerings with leaves and flowers to leave on the sidewalks for the next day. These colorful squares do not last more than a couple of hours. Many offerings die under motorcycles, others are crushed by pedestrians, fall into the river, or are left in the trash. 

Bali creates expectations. It is a giant island, and to know it in depth, you need more than a week.  I suggest you include at least 6 places to visit if you dare to experience the famed Balinese adventure. 

1.-Tirta Empul

This temple was built in the year 926 A.D, during the Warmadewa dynasty. It is a place of pilgrimage for the Balinese, as legend has it that its 12 fountains have healing powers. The entry fee is 1 USD and you can even bathe among the fish. 

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2.- Pura Ulun Danu Batur or “The Temple of the Lake” 

It is the postcard from Bali. A temple with different roofs that emerges from the waters of a volcanic lake and with a mountainous landscape behind it. It is dedicated to the goddess Dewi Danu, in charge of protecting the area as a symbol of fertility and prosperity. Its entry fee is USD 4 

3.-Ubud

It is a charming city in the center of the island. To get there you will go through the paddies. It became famous among tourists for the book and movie Eat, Pray and Love. The featured house (which is now a hostel) of the Balinese sage Ketut Liyer is a must.

Although the healer died a couple of years ago, his son will read your palm, due to the dozens of tourists who knock on his door and want to live the experience of the writer and also the actress Julia Roberts.

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4.- Monkey Forest, Balinese long tailed monkey sanctuary in Ubud  

It is a natural sanctuary. More than 340 Balinese long-tailed ‘macaque’ monkeys live in this forest and roam freely along the trails and trees of the enclosure. Be aware that you’re entering their home.

Everything you have on hand, as well as earrings, glasses, and wallets are up for grabs if it’s interesting enough for them. The entrance to this temple costs 1.50 USD per person 

5.- The Ubud Market

Wooden masks, wallets, sarongs, dresses and souvenirs from the trip. It is a two-story market where you can haggle to buy everything at a fair price. 

6.- Beach and pool day

Escape for once the island’s traffic. Relax all day in one of the private clubs along Kuta Beach. My favorite was Potato Head. It has a bed with an ocean view and the bar is inside the pool. Get their mojitos until you see the sun go down. 

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Swings on Gili Trawangan Island 

When I was planning my trip, I realized that the sunset with the swings that I saw in the photos were on one of the three Gili islands. So, I took the ferry and in 3 hours I reached this beach. It will take you an hour to make the complete tour on foot and 15 minutes by the only means of transportation available: Horses. 

Gili Trawangan, like the rest of Indonesia, has a majority Muslim population. There are no human shaped decorations or temples, no flower offerings and you could only hear the call to prayers from the mosque. I thought for a moment that the island was sparsely populated, imagine my surprise when later on I found throngs of tourists looking for parties. 

After a rainy day and almost at the end of the afternoon, I finally arrived at the place where everybody got ready to enjoy the show. Along the beach, you find dozens of swings that are part of the hotels and restaurants in the area. 

So, it was there, in the swing and with all kinds of pastel colors in the sky, I enjoyed my last day on the beaches of Indonesia. 

El arco azul, conocido como Bad Bou Jeloud, te da la bienvenida a este laberinto de 9.000 calles dentro de la Medina. Era julio. Siglo XXI, pero aquí el tiempo se detuvo en la Edad Medieval, específicamente en el siglo VIII.

No hay edificios altos, solo se imponen las mezquitas de la ciudad. Tampoco se escuchan carros. No hay contaminación. El paisaje es arcilloso, no hay asfalto y las calles son adoquinadas, unas tan estrechas que solo una persona puede ingresar a la vez.

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Nos adentrábamos y a mi mente llegaban las imágenes de la telenovela brasileña El Clon, que se transmitió en Ecuador -en horario estelar en el año 2001- y que me cautivó desde ese momento. Cada mujer con velos islámicos me recordaba a Jade y el rostro de las señoras, a Soraide. Incluso, me emocionaba cuando escuchaba entre los comerciantes gritar los nombres:  Mohamed, Said, Alí o Mustafá.

Después de 16 años (cuando por primera vez vi El Clon) lo había logrado. Estaba en Marruecos, específicamente en Fez. Una ciudad árabe que visualmente me cautivó por ser una cápsula en el tiempo y tener tradiciones musulmanas muy arraigadas.

La Medina de Fez, como todas, es amurallada. Para seguir con la tradición me hospedé en un Riad, que son casas típicas. Por fuera tenía una diminuta puerta, pero por dentro era grande -con patio interior, fuentes y árboles- similar a la casa del tío Alí.

Mi sorpresa fue que justamente Alí nos recibió. El chico alto, delgado y vestido con una túnica nos invitó el famoso té de menta y nos abrió el mapa de la ciudad. Era una misión casi imposible moverse sola en la Medina y más complicado por ser mujer. Mi mejor opción fue contratar un guía.

Junto con Hassan comenzó la aventura de seis horas por al menos la mitad de los 300 barrios que componen la ciudad antigua Fez El-Bali. Las calles tienen nombres escritos en árabe y difícilmente volverás a pasar por la misma área. Pero el guía las conocía a ojos cerrados.

Entre el mercado de especias se divisa una gigante puerta de cedro que es la entrada de Madraza o Medersa El Attarine, la escuela coránica más antigua. Ahí resaltan sus columnas de mármol, azulejos y labrados hechos pieza por pieza por sus artesanos. Su fuente central es usada para la purificación.

 La ciudad es conocida por tener los mejores artesanos. Es inevitable que el guía no te lleve de compras a las tiendas de sus amigos que elaboran joyas, alfombras, sábanas de seda, ollas de cobre, artículos de cuero, vasijas, fuentes… Así se vive el comercio en Fez.

Un imponente “La shukran”, “no gracias”, te salvará de llevarte una alfombra en la maleta o hasta evitar que te compres una puerta y te la envíen a tu casa. Y eso fue exactamente lo que dijimos, luego de que nos llevaran a la terraza para mostrarnos las gigantes alfombras elaboradas con piel de camello, gacela e hilo del agave.

Cruzando uno de sus puentes, el sonido de los martillos al unísono  mostraba una armonía en la Plaza Seffarine. Abdul -conocido por ser el hombre con las manos más duras del barrio de los orfebres y los metaleros- y sus amigos les dan forma a los calderos, ollas, teteras, lámparas de cobre.

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La temperatura alcanzaba los 37 grados, el sol era intenso, pero nos acercábamos al sitio más fotografiado de Fez. El terrible olor te indicaba la cercanía. Subimos a la tienda de Amman y nos regalaron un ramillete de menta para poder respirar.

Llegamos al balcón y desde ahí los hombres sumergidos en las tinas de colores de la Curtiduría Chouwara eran parte de esta postal. Tal cual como en los primeros capítulos de la novela, cuando Latiffa le mostraba a Jade que el tío Alí era el dueño de la mitad de los tanques.

En la Curtiduría Chouwara se tiñe el cuero. Este es un  negocio milenario de las familias de Fez.

En estas gigantes acuarelas blancas, rojas, azules, cafés y verdes se tiñen el cuero de ovejas, vacas, cabras y camellos previamente sacrificados. El olor nauseabundo se debe al uso de excrementos de paloma para limpiar el cuero y remover la grasa. Es increíble como ellos pueden trabajar en esas condiciones.

Decenas de familias se dedican a este negocio milenario y en sus terrazas los cueros son exhibidos mientras cumplen su proceso de secado. Después pasan a sus tiendas los finos abrigos, zapatos y carteras para más adelante enviarlos a Italia o París, donde les colocan las etiquetas de reconocidas marcas.

Cada esquina en Fez me cautivó. Los burros, que son el medio de transporte de carga; las cabezas de camellos guindando en el mercado de carnes; la decoración de las fuentes; los colores de sus azulejos; la elegancia de sus mezquitas y escuelas coránicas; los vestidos de sus mujeres. Pero, sobre todo las tiendas, los velos, los zapatos autóctonos, los bolsos, los platos, los aceites de argán son las que captaron mi atención.

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Ya en la noche, en la terraza del Riad y esperando nuestra cena, un canto salía de los parlantes de las mezquitas, era el llamado a la oración entre los musulmanes. Nuestro mesero Hassan y la cocinera Nabila tuvieron que entrar para orar con dirección a la Meca, como es la costumbre. 

Así le poníamos fin a esta aventura donde pude vivir un día la experiencia de El Clon y pude comprobar, que aunque pasen los siglos en Fez, su cultura y su religión siguen intactos.

Para anotar:

• La mejor manera de llegar a Fez es por tren. Sus vagones son cómodos y con aire acondicionado. El precio desde Marrakesh es de $33 y desde Casablanca $17. A mi me funcionó pedirle al hotel que me enviara un taxi. Aunque el precio haya sido de $10, cuando uno regular te cobra $1.

• Pasear por La Medina solo es un deporte extremo. Lo aconsejable es hacerlo con un guía. Así evitarás que los transeúntes te exijan propina por ayudarte. El precio del guía varía entre los $20 y $30 por persona.

• Para las mujeres no es obligatorio cubrirse la cabeza, pero sí usar ropa holgada y no mostrar los hombros, ni tener escotes.

• Los árabes son comerciantes por naturaleza. Te pedirán un precio muy elevado por sus productos, pero regateando puedes llevártelos por la mitad de su valor.

• La entrada a las mezquitas es prohibida para los no musulmanes. Pero puedes tomar fotos solo a su entrada.

• Fez también tiene su ciudad moderna, afuera de las murallas. Encontrarás centros comerciales, supermercados y restaurantes de comida rápida.

• Fez es considerada Patrimonio Cultural de la Humanidad, según la UNESCO  y su Medina es la zona peatonal más grande del mundo. Tiene 300 barrios y habitan 500.000 personas.

 

The blue gate, known as Bad Bou Jeloud, welcomes you to this labyrinth of 9,000 streets within the Medina. It was July on the 21st century, but here time stopped in the Medieval Age, specifically in the 8th century. 

There are no tall buildings, only the mosques of the city prevail, nor are cars heard. There is no contamination, and the scenery is made of clay. There are no asphalt roads, instead the streets are cobbled, and some are so narrow that only one person can enter at a time. 

As we entered, the images of the famous Brazilian soap opera “The Clon” came to my mind, which was broadcast in my native Ecuador during primetime in 2001.

I was captivated with that story from the beginning. Each woman with Islamic veils reminded me of Jade, the main character, and the ladies’ faces, of the character Soraide. I was even excited when I heard the names of the merchants shouting: Mohamed, Said, Ali or Mustafa. 

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After 16 years (from the time I saw “The Clon”) I had finally achieved my dream. I was in Morocco, specifically in Fez. An Arab city that visually enchanted me for being a time capsule and having deep-rooted Muslim traditions. 

The Medina of Fez is walled, which is generally the case. To immerse myself in the local customs, I stayed in a Riad, which are the typical houses. Outside it had a tiny door, but inside it was large – with an interior patio, fountains and trees – similar to the Uncle Ali’s TV character house. 

My surprise was that another Alí received us, exactly as in the soap opera. The tall, skinny boy dressed in a robe invited us to have the famous mint tea and opened the map of the city. It was an almost impossible mission to move alone in the Medina and more complicated when you are a woman. My best option was to hire a tour guide. 

Along with Hassan our guide, the six-hour adventure began in at least half of the 300 neighborhoods that make up the ancient city of Fez El-Bali. The streets have names written in Arabic and you will hardly go through the same area again. But the guide knew them like the palm of his hand.

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Nestled in the spice market you can see a giant cedar door that is the entrance to Madrasah or Medersa Al-Attarine, the oldest Koranic school. Its most remarkable features are the marble columns, the tiles and the elaborate carvings made piece by piece by its craftsmen. Its central fountain is used for purification. 

The city is known for having the greatest artisans. It is inevitable that the guide will take you shopping, to the stores of his friends making jewelry, rugs, silk sheets, copper pots, leather articles, vessels, and fountains… This is how commerce is part of living in Fez. 

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The temperature reached 38 degrees centigrade, the sun was intense, but we were approaching the most photographed site in Fez. The terrible smell indicated proximity. We went up to Mr. Amman’s store and they gave us a sprig of mint to breathe. 

We reached the balcony and from there, we saw the men submerged in the colored tubs of the Chouwara Tannery, as if they were posing for a postcard. Just like in the first episodes of the soap opera, when Latiffa showed Jade that Uncle Ali owned half of the coloring tanks. 

The Chouwara Tanneryse is a millennial business family of Fez.

In these giant watercolors of white, red, blue, brown and green dyes, the leather of previously slaughtered sheep, cows, goats and camels is transformed. The foul smell is due to the use of pigeon droppings to clean the leather and remove the fat. It’s astonishing how they can work in those conditions. 

Dozens of families are engaged in this thousand-year-old business and the leathers are exhibited on their terraces while they complete their drying process. Later on, the fine coats, shoes and wallets go to their stores and after that, they’re sent to Italy or Paris, where many will be branded with the labels of recognized fashion houses. 

Every corner in Fez was charming to me: Donkeys everywhere, for transporting cargo; Camel heads hanging in the meat market; the fountains decorations; the colors of the tiles; the elegance of its mosques and Koranic schools; the women dresses. But, above all, the stores, the veils, the traditional shoes, the bags, the ceramics, and the argan oils that specially caught my attention. 

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As the night came down on us, while waiting for our dinner on the terrace of the Riad, a song came from the speakers of the mosques. It was the call to prayer for all Muslims. Our waiter Hassan and the cook Nabila had to enter to pray towards Mecca, as is their ritual. 

And with this moment, we ended up this adventure where I lived the fantasy of being in “The Clon” for one day.  I got to see with my own eyes, that even though the centuries have passed in Fez, its culture and religious traditions are still intact. 

To note:

1. The best way to get to Fez is by train. Their carriages are comfortable and air-conditioned. The price from Marrakesh is US$ 33 and from Casablanca US$ 17. It worked for me to ask the hotel having a taxi pick me up at the station. Although if you request this convenience, they charge you $ 10, when a regular one on the street charges you US$ 1.  
2. Walking by yourself through the Medina is an extreme sport. It is advisable to do it with a guide. This will prevent passersby insistently asking you to tip them if they help you with any information. The price of the guide varies between $ 20 and $ 30 per person.  
3. Women do not have to cover their heads, but it is expected that you wear modest and loose clothing without low necklines and covering your shoulders.  
4. Arabs are merchants by nature. They will ask a very high price for their products, but if you haggle, you can take down the price in half.  
5. Entrance to mosques is prohibited for non-Muslims. But you are allowed to take photos at its entrances.  
6. Fez also has a modern city, outside the walls. You will find shopping malls, supermarkets and fast food restaurants. 
7. Fez is considered part of the Cultural Heritage of Humanity, according to UNESCO, and its Medina is the largest pedestrian zone in the world. It has 300 neighborhoods and 500,000 habitants. 

 

Thailand chose me. I dare say it, because it was never on my travel list. At least not in 2016. It only appeared suddenly on my life and it happened at the right time. Those were 10 days in which the word “plan” was not on my agenda. I just ventured to a totally unknown region for me: Southeast Asia. 

I do not regret it. I believe It’s one of the most captivating countries on earth. The wonder of its beaches and its majestic temples surround you. The extreme contrasts are the reason why it’s so alluring and constitutes its very essence. 

Deep religiosity, reverent loyalty to the King and visible prostitution may share the same area. And the best thing about Thailand is that you don’t need a fortune to experience the country. Even a low budget can give you options. 

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It all happened in November for this reason: Yi Peng or the lantern festival in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand. Searching for air tickets was not difficult with Expedia. A week before the event (Nov 13) I found them at 630 USD by China Southern Airlines. The price may be even cheaper if you get them in advance.  

I must remind you, the first flight departing from New York has an average of 16 hours and almost all other options have extensive layovers in Chinese cities that you probably have never heard of, where hardly anyone speaks English, so you must be prepared.  

In my case it was seven hours in Guangzhou, China and later on, eight hours in Bangkok, to finally arrive in Chiang Mai. In terms of accommodation, the range of options is extensive. Hostels, luxury hotels, bed & breakfasts located in the historical sector of the city with different prices for every budget. I chose Fuengfa Place for a nightly rate of 34USD for a double-bed room.  

Chiang Mai is a city with a lot of traffic and noise, but its imposing Buddhist temples are the main attraction. On each street, the monks in their orange robes give a colorful fleck on the landscape, and tuk tuks (tricycles) and the songthaew (small public transport vans) finish the ensemble with an urban touch. 

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These sites are a must: Wat Pa Prao Nok Temple, Wat Phra Singh, Wat Phan Tao, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and the oldest, Wat Chedi Luang Worawihan, for which you only pay 1.50 USD. The bazaar and the night market are the perfect places to shop. 

The Prices are unbeatable: In one day your expenses can include 60 cents USD on transportation, 5 USD for a full lunch, beer brands like Chang for 1 USD a bottle, Coconuts 50 cents USD, T-shirts for 3 USD, Handbags for 10 USD, and the famous Thai massage for 6 USD. 

My friends and I rented a taxi so we could take the tours outside the city. The first stop was at Elephant Nature Park, a rescue center. For 79 USD, We fed, walked and bathed our new friend Satawy for two hours. It was unforgettable. 

We ended up in the village of the Kayan tribe, whose women are known for the collar rings on their long necks. 

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It was finally the night of November 13. The full moon was the perfect background setting to kick off the lantern festival that happens every year. Since we couldn’t buy the tickets for the main event, we had to go to a town called Lumpung. 

At that site the tour cost us 60 USD including transportation, food coupons, entrance and the floating lanterns 

Letting go and leave all bad things behind is part of Buddhist doctrine. The monks’ prayers and blessings, turning the lanterns on and releasing them was magical. Thousands of yellow lights adorned the sky, just like in the Disney movie Tangled

For a moment, you immerse yourself in a light show where you don’t know whether to take photos, hug those who are with you or let go of your lantern. That moment was a joyful checkmark on our bucket list. 

Once the event was over, our next destination was to discover the south and its beaches. For what I’ve lived at that point, I thoroughly recommend Thailand. Whether on a budget or not, this is a destination that you can’t say no to. 

La primera parte del viaje en Tailandia estuvo llena de templos, convivencia con los animales y el show de las linternas. Ahora era mi turno, de visitar las paradisíacas playas.

Y, la parada era en Pucket. Luego de pagar 36USD por un vuelo con escala en Bangkok (más económico que una carrera en taxi de Manhattan al aeropuerto JFK) llegamos a una de las islas al sur del país.

El aeropuerto está localizado  a una hora de Patong, una de las playas con vida nocturna más conocida en la isla por su prostitución, pero en todo el recorrido están los Resorts con playas privadas. Un taxi puede llegar a costar 15-20 USD pero por mucho menos puedes tomar un minibus, aunque el tiempo de llegada puede ser el doble.

Una vez en la playa, se puede disfrutar del mar turquesa y súper caliente, arena blanca y un  sol que rostiza porque la temperatura alcanza los 42 grados. El mar es calmado pero por momentos era muy agitado.

Paradas obligatorias son el Buda gigante de Pucket, Karon y  Promthep Cape, conocidos por tener la mejor caída del sol del país asiático.

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Luego de 2 días, nuestro siguiente destino era la provincia de Krabi y las famosas islas  Phi Phi  y Ko Phi Phi donde esta Maya Bay, destino de todos los mochileros que vieron la película de Leonardo Di Caprio, La Playa. Por ahora y debido a la contaminación, la isla está cerrada para los turistas.

Tres horas en ferry por 45USD y llegamos a Phi Phi, un sitio que quedó destruida por el tsunami pero con los años se ha recuperado y ahora es la atracción turística más famosa del país.

Hoteles. Para todos los presupuestos. El mío Phi Phi Nice Beach Resort, cabañas al pie del mar y solo a 15 minutos del muelle. El día por 34USD pero con tiempo puedes encontrar desde 10USD.

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Pero sin duda la mejor parte del viaje fue rentar un bote o “long tail” por 4 horas. En estas pintorescas lanchas tailandesas recorres las islas cercanas. Puedes incluso regatear hasta 45USD (con capacidad para 10 personas) por ese tiempo me pareció muy económico.

MA-RA-VI-LLO-SO. FAS-CI-NAN-TE. Así puedo definir Maya Bay, Loh Samah Bay, Pileh Lagoon y Viking Cave. Admirar el agua turquesa y cristalina, nadar junto a los peces, tomar una cerveza Chang acostada en el bote mientras admiras la caída del sol… Perfecciones que vale la pena vivirlas.

Mi error fue quedarme un día. Si pueden disfruten más tiempo. Vivan la mejor experiencia mochilera.

Bailen en la fiesta de la luna, relájense con un masaje tailandés al pie del mar, saboreen los manjares picantes por 5-10 USD o por menos de un dolar deleitense con los mojitos…  Mi estadía en el país fue de 10 días y aun tenía que tomar el vuelo hacia la capital Bangkok.

On my first part of the trip, Thailand was full of temples, an atmosphere of coexistence with wild animals and the lantern show. Now, it was my turn to visit the paradisiacal beaches. 

And the stop was at Phucket, South Thailand. After paying 36 USD for a stopover flight in Bangkok (cheaper than a taxi ride from Manhattan to the JFK airport) we arrived at one of the islands in the south of the country. 

The airport is located one hour from Patong, one of the most infamous nightlife beaches on the island for its tolerance to prostitution. On your way there, you can find the Resorts with private beaches. A taxi can cost between 15-20 USD, but for much less, you can take a minibus, although the journey will be double the time. 

Once on the beach, you can enjoy the warm turquoise sea, white sand and sunlight that will roast you. The temperature can reach over a 100 Fahrenheit! The sea is generally calm, but at times it was unexpectedly very rough. 

Essential stops in Thailand are the Giant Buddha of Phuket, the town of Karon and Promthep Cape, known for having the best sunset in the country. 

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After 2 days, our next destination was the province of Krabi and the famous Phi Phi islands and Ko Phi Phi in Maya Bay. Here you’ll encounter all the backpackers who saw Leonardo Di Caprio’s film, The Beach.  Unfortunately, the area is closed to tourist.

After three hours by ferry (45 USD), we reached Phi Phi, an area that was destroyed by the tsunami of 2004, but it has recovered over the years and is now the most famous tourist attraction in the country.

There are hotels for all budgets. My choice was Phi Phi Nice Beach Resort, with cabins right in front of the beach and only 15 minutes from the pier. The nightly rate is 34 USD but if you can reserve ahead, you can get it from 10 USD. 

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Without a doubt, the best part of the trip was renting a boat or “long tail” for 4 hours. In these picturesque Thai motorboats, you travel all around the nearby islands. You can even haggle the price down to 45USD (with capacity for 10 people). At that time, I considered it a bargain. 

Simply fantastic and fascinating. This is how I define Maya Bay, Loh Samah Bay, Pileh Lagoon and Viking Cave. You can admire the crystal-clear water, swim with schools of fish, and have a Chang beer lying down in the boat while you admire the sunset… Perfect moments that make life worth living. 

I stayed only one day. If you can afford more time, it’s totally wort it. Live the best backpacking experience: 

Dance at the Moon party, relax with a Thai massage by the sea, savor the spicy delicacies for 5-10 USD or even less than a dollar, and refresh yourself with mojitos… 

By then, I’ve stayed for 10 days and there was still a flight ahead to the capital: Bangkok 

Caótica, exótica y muy caliente. Llena de vida, movimiento, humo, contaminación y ruido. Así describiría Bangkok.  La capital de Tailandia es un mosaico de colores, ornamentos, arquitectura, pinturas. No es una ciudad que enamora a primera vista, pero la gentileza y alegría de su gente te cautiva.

Conocida como la puerta de entrada del Sudeste Asiático, está compuesta rascacielos, templos, budas llenos de ofrendas, tuk tuks, mercados flotantes, puestos callejeros de comida y flores y el metro que recorre la ciudad. Dos días no fueron suficientes para recorrerla pero si para conocer su esencia.

Mi parada obligatoria fue el Gran Palacio. Por 500 THB (15USD), conocerás este gigante complejo construido en 1782 y que compone una seria de majestuosos templos incluyendo al palacio real y el templo de Buda de Esmeralda, que es la más venerada del país.

La línea para entrar parece interminable. Y, adentro es una marejada de asiáticos que la visitan a diario. Al ingresar a los templos debes estar descalza y siempre cubierta. No puedes tomar fotos adentro.

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Su decoración, sus pequeñas piezas labradas y las piedras preciosas que conforman cada pagoda tienen una belleza insuperable, que hará que te quedes boquiabierto. A unas pocas cuadras está el buda reclinado de Wat Pho, una estatua que mide 43 metros.

Bangkok no es solo templos. Tomando un tuk tuk (regateando el precio)  y cruzando los atajos llegarás al Barrio Chino, donde sus olores te envolverán, en especial el de pescado, para luego cruzar a Khao San Road, la calle de los mochileros que está llena de restaurantes y vida nocturna.

Al caer el sol, mi siguiente parada fue a la torre Lebua, exactamente al SkyBar, el famoso ‘rooftop’ de la película Hangover 2 y conocido como una de las mejores terrazas del mundo. Desde el piso 64 tienes toda la vista iluminada de la ciudad

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El bar es pequeño y sin sillas. Siempre está lleno porque todos los turistas quieren vivir la experiencia. Pedir el Hangovertini, un coctel que fue especialmente creado y tiene licor de té verde y Martini Rosso, y creer que Bradley Cooper aparecerá bajando por las escaleras. Sus precios comienzan desde los 20USD.

Era el último día en Bangkok y de mi larga lista de sitios que me faltaba conocer estaba el centro arqueológico  de Ayutthaya. El ícono del Tailandia.

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Mi recorrido incluyó el Wat Maharat ( Templo de la Cabeza de Buda ). Y, aunque el conjunto está totalmente en ruinas, la famosa cabeza de buda rodeada de las raíces de un árbol, quizás es una de las fotografías más famosas de Tailandia .

En el complejo ruinoso se puede observar la cantidad de figuras de buda decapitadas durante la última invasión birmana que como castigo en la incursión decidieron destrozarlas.

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El taxi (ida y vuelta) desde el hotel costó 30USD. También hay buses y trenes.  El trayecto puede tomar unas 5 horas. Adentro, recomiendan rentar bicicletas o tomar tuk tuks para visitar todos los templos. Pero con los 40 grados de temperatura, decidí recorrer el parque en el taxi.

Mi visita en Bangkok fue realmente corta. Hay otros sitios como el Mercado flotante y el Templo del Amanecer (Wat Arun) que no pueden pasar por alto. A pesar del poco tiempo, los 10 días en Tailandia fueron una experiencia inolvidable. Las sonrisas y la amabilidad de su gente serán el mejor recuerdo del país.